Kumano Kodo
You’ve probably heard of the Camino but may not be familiar with the Kumano.
The Kumano Kodo in Japan and the Camino de Santiago in Europe, have much in common. Both are long-established pilgrimage trails and both are UNESCO World Heritage listed. Both are multi-day walks and both offer various route options.
We walked the Kumano Kodo in May 2023, and loved it. It’s one of the most beautiful, pristine and peaceful places I’ve ever walked. The Camino de Santiago is on the bucket list.
Planning to walk the Kumano Kodo?
If you’re thinking of walking the Kumano Kodo I hope the following information will be helpful. We picked a friend’s brain before setting off and got some invaluable information. We picked up other tips along the way.
Every journey will vary depending on the specific routes taken, the places you stay and the time of year you’re walking. But many things will be common to all and knowing these things will help you to be prepared.
On this page I’ve included information about planning for your walk, getting around, accommodation and some of the must-sees.
What is the Kumano Kodo?
The Kumano Kodo walk is a network of pilgrimage trails that wind through the mountains of Japan’s Kii Peninsula, leading to the three Grand Shrines: Hongu Taisha, Nachi Taisha and Hayatama Taisha.
Since before history was recorded, the Kumano region has been associated with nature worship. From the seventh century it became a sacred centre of practice to followers of Shugendo (a blend of the native Shintoism with Buddhism, Confucianism and Taoism), which promotes physical endurance as a path to spiritual enlightenment. And yes, your physical endurance will be challenged!
There are five main routes. We walked the Nakahechi or Imperial Route. Most people travelling the Kumano Kodo take this route walking sections of the trail over five-six days and stopping in remote villages along the way.
The Nakahechi route starts in Tanabe on the western coast of the Kii-Peninsula and heads east across the mountains towards the Grand Shrines.
The trail is a mixture of unpaved, uneven trails, ancient cobblestones and stairs, with some sections of paved roads through villages.
The Kumano Kodo trail takes you through some truly breathtaking landscapes, Yes, at times you may struggle up seemingly never-ending hills, but that’s soon forgotten as you reach the peak and take in the views, before you start chasing waterfalls downhill into dense cedar forests.
Before you go
The most important thing to note is that this is a hike, not a stroll, so you need to have a decent level of fitness, and a good pair of walking boots.
Making plans
Before you go you’ll need to plan your route and accommodation. You can outsource this to a walking company (self-guided and group tours available) or plan it yourself.
With barely a word of Japanese between us, we found it easier to outsource. We booked a self-guided trip with OKU Japan who organised our accommodation, detailed itineraries, train tickets etc. This saved us a lot of effort. If you want to plan everything yourself (which will save money) you might find this website helpful.
Consider the weather and terrain
In theory, you can walk the trail at any time of year. But all that uphill climbing will be difficult in the summer months and potentially icy in the winter. The ideal time is spring and autumn (think cherry blossoms and autumn colours ) but it will obviously be busier at these times. We went in May. We missed the blossoms but also the crowds and though we had a bit of rain, the temperatures on most days were perfect for walking.
Pack light
You won’t need much more than walking gear, water, poles, a few toiletries, coins for the bus and perhaps some trail mix. Ideally, you won’t be carrying a big pack on your daily walks but you will have to transport it to and from.
Luggage services
The walk will be more enjoyable, not to mention easier, if you’re not carrying a huge pack. Luggage shuttle providers will take your big bag to your next destination so that you can carry something lighter for the day, (or possibly two, depending on the region). If you’ve booked your trip through an agency, they should be able to arrange this service for you. If not, you can find information and pricing here. (Be sure to check pick up times and follow instructions regarding tags and labels.)
Pilgrim or no?
You’ll want to also decide whether or not to do the walk as a pilgrimage as many do, stopping for reflection at each shrine and recording the stops in a small ‘passport’. If you choose to do so, you’ll need to register at the Tanabe Tourist Information Center (next to the JR Kii-Tanabe station) before starting out on your walk. You’ll receive your passport which you will use to collect stamps at temples along the way. If you’ve also walked the Camino de Santiago you will qualify as a Dual Pilgrim once you’ve completed this one.
Highlights of the Kumano Kodo
The Landscape
The standout feature of this walk would have to be the scenery - a good thing really as you spend a long time looking at it!
From tall cedar forests (that dwarf you as you enter), to moss-covered forest floors, babbling brooks and tumbling waterfalls, this walk has it all. And what’s more its pristine. The paths though well worn are well-maintained, and apart from one broken old bottle, I saw no rubbish at all and no grafitti.
Wildlife and Wildflowers
You might have been warned about bears in these parts, but though you might see warning signs and even bear-deterrent bells, you’re very unlikely to encounter one as you walk. While black bears are known to roam the Kii Peninsula, they are rarely seen by walkers on the trail.
What you will find here though is a variety of birds with pretty, resonant songs. But they’re elusive little creatures and you’ll likely hear many more that you will see.
You may see some small snakes and other small reptiles as you walk, and look out for butterflies and other insects. We saw some beautiful ones among small clutches of pretty wildflowers, scattered along the trail.
If you’re walking in springtime you’re sure to see plenty more flowers than we did, especially in March and April when the blossoms are at their best.
Sacred Sites
In among all this natural beauty, are several Oji (shrines) of varying size and grandeur, where pilgrims pause to reflect and offer gratitude. This has been a place of pilgrimage since the 10th century. At first the pilgrims were aristocrats and royalty but over time it became a pilgrimage for all. By the late 15th century most pilgrims along the Kumano were commoners like you and me.
The three main shrines - Kumano Hongu Taisha, Kumano Hayatama Taisha and Kumana Nachi Taisha, are traditionally important and visually striking. Depending on the path you take you may not see all three but try not to miss seeing Kumano-Nachi Taisha at the end of the walk. It is particularly impressive.
Approached by dense forest, the Nachi Taisha site features a grand three-storied pagoda and Buddhist and Shinto temples, one next to the other. It has views to Nachi Falls, Japan's tallest uninterrupted single drop waterfall and is home to an 850-year-old sacred camphor tree which you can climb through. If you miss seeing Nachi Taisha as part of your walk (as we did) you can get to it by bus - 25 minutes from Kii-Katsuura Station, and 17 minutes from Nachi Station.
Kumano Nachi Taisha and Nachi Falls which has a drop of 133 meters
Food
Almost without exception, the food we had on our trip was very good and there was plenty of it.
You’ll be hungry after all that exercise and at meal times you’ll have the opportunity to try something you might not encounter elsewhere. If you have special dietary needs it would be best to alert your hosts before you arrive.
At dinner and breakfast, your hosts will present you with an array of tiny dishes. There’ll be soup and rice, and perhaps sashimi and noodles, along with various pieces of fish, meat and vegetable, steamed, fried, boiled and pickled.
If you’re travelling in a remote region where shops are few and far between, your host will probably also supply lunch for your onward journey, packed in a bento box, complete with chopsticks.
Good to know
Accommodation
Whether you book your accommodation yourself or have someone else arrange it, the places you stay in will probably be ryokans or minshukus, traditional Japanese style inns. Whilst they are generally fairly basic in style they offer an authentic cultural experience.
You will likely sleep on a futon on tatami matting. Bathrooms are often communal onsens (see below), though you may have your own toilet and hand-held shower. You will usually be offered a cotton yukata robe to wear on the premises after bathing.
Each place we stayed in was different to the last and each had its own charm and quirks. Our favourite was Coffee Keyaki, a little breakfast-style minshuku in Takahara. It is set high in the mountains and overlooks rice paddies and the valleys below. Our hosts were a husband and wife team who live in one half of the house with their three children. and rent out two (ensuited) rooms to travellers. The beds were comfy and the food they prepared for us - dinner, breakfast and a bento box to go, was delicious and plentiful.
Coffee Keyaki in Takahara
Shoes
You’ll need to remove your shoes when entering your accommodation and place them in a basket, on a shelf or lined up with others at the entrance. You will be provided with slippers to wear inside, (though not on tatami matting) and look out for special ‘toilet slippers’ that you’ll need to change into before entering the toilet or bathroom.
Onsen
If you’re a touch intimidated by the idea of getting naked and sharing bath water with a bunch of strangers, you’re not alone.
Onsens are communal baths, and bathing in an onsen is a unique cultural experience. Many travellers find them soothing and relaxing and once you get your head around the rules associated with them, you may do too.
A full rundown on onsen etiquette could triple the length of this post. To avoid that, I’ve borrowed this video from the Tanabe City Kumano Tourism Bureau. It covers most of what you need to know before dipping your toes into an onsen for the first time. More tips can be found here.
Final trail tips
Though not technically difficult, the Kumano Kodo is physically challenging so some pre-walk training is recommended.
Take poles and practice using them before you go. I didn’t use mine all the time but I found them especially useful when going down steep rocky hills.
Wear boots. They’ll be better in the rain and mud and will help to keep any leeches at bay. If you prefer to wear shoes, consider packing some gaiters for the same reasons.
Fill your water bottles before leaving your accommodation as you’ll be unlikely to find another water source on the path.
There are some toilets on the trail but not many, so keep this in mind.
Numbered markers along the way allow you to alert emergency services to your location in case of emergency
Ensure that you have cash for use on buses which don’t (or didn’t when we travelled) take credit cards
Buses service the isolated villages where you will stay overnight. Be sure to check timetables as the buses are few and far between and missing one of the morning buses may see you arriving at your accommodation very late in the day.
Be flexible. Weather happens, so do blisters and the variety of trails along the Kumano Kodo means you can vary your route accordingly. If you need to change your plans, check the routes and plan ahead - A six hour trek could possibly be replaced by a bus ride and a two hour alternative that will get you to the same place. You can still enjoy the day and the beautiful trail without knocking yourself out.