Sea Fortress Suomenlinna
If you find yourself in Helsinki for a few days, I highly recommend a trip out to this island fortress. It offers a delightful mix of history, natural beauty, and maritime charm. It’s also a great place to have a picnic or to enjoy some traditional Finnish fare at one of the island’s cafes or restaurants.
Suomenlinna is a UNESCO World Heritage listed sea fortress and one of a group of islands in the Helsinki archipelago, off the coast of Finland. It’s also one of the top tourist attractions and has over a million people visiting its shores each year.
Getting to Suomenlinna Fortress
The boat ride out takes about fifteen minutes. The ferry departs from the Kauppatori Market Square and it’s about a fifteen minute ride to the main quay of Suomenlinna. The service runs throughout the year, though boats go less frequently in the winter months.
The Trail
The walk around Suomenlinna follows the 'blue line' which runs north to south and showcases the main sights of the fortress. But you'll no doubt want to step off the trail to explore other areas including the shoreline. Keep in mind that the island is home to about 800 permanent residents, so look out for signs restricting access.
The cobblestone pathways guide you through a labyrinth of old buildings, tunnels, and open squares. You can download the official Suomenlinna map and guide from their website before your visit to help navigate the island.
There is an alternative route (signposted) for people with impaired mobility and those pushing prams. This route bypasses some of the steep hills and rougher sections of the blue route, though keep in mind it may still be rough going in some parts. as parts of the terrain are quite hilly and the cobblestone paths can be slippery.
Things to see and do
Suomenlinna is both visually impressive and rich in history. It provides plenty to explore for a full day, including various museums, bunkers and fortress walls. You can learn all about the island’s history as you pass the many well-preserved buildings and explore the various museums, bunkers and tunnels.
Tomb of Ehrensvärd, founder of the Suomenlinna Island Fortress
Each structure tells a story of the fortress's rich history, from its construction by the Swedes in the mid-18th century, to its time under Russian occupation and subsequent liberation following Finnish independence. In WWII the fortress served as a coastal artillery and submarine base and you can see Finland's last remaining WWII submarine here.
If history's not your thing, there is plenty of natural beauty on the island to appeal to all. If you climb up to the fortress walls, you can enjoy panoramic views of the Gulf of Finland, boats and swans bobbing in the foreground and, on a clear day, the Helsinki skyline in the distance.
The island is also home to a variety of wildlife, particularly birds, making it a paradise for birdwatchers in spring and summer. The southern shores feature charming pebbly beaches where you can dip your toes in the (cold) Baltic Sea.
There are numerous cafes on the island and its gardens, courtyards and coastal hill tops are great spots for a picnic.
Best time to visit Suemonlina
Suemonlina is worth a visit at anytime of year. I've visited Suomenlinna twice - once in summer and again in early winter. The wildflowers and wildlife abundant in the spring and summer months make this time particularly attractive, but the cooler months bring their own charm as the pretty cobblestone streets are filled with autumn colour or sprinkled in snow.
The island hosts a wide range of services and events year round though some of the museums and cafes may be closed or running on reduced hours in the winter. But on the plus side, at that time of year, you’re unlikely to encounter a crowd.
Whatever the season, I recommend taking along an extra layer as parts of the island are very exposed.
In the area
After returning to the mainland from Suomenlinna, take some time to explore the Kauppatori Market Square and nearby Old Market Hall, where you’ll find local crafts and Finnish delicacies. From there, Helsinki's downtown area with its stunning architecture, museums, and shopping districts is just a short walk away.
For fans of design and architecture like me, check out the Design shopping area near Esplanade Park where you’ll find Aarikka, Marimekko and more. There’s great op-shopping in Helsinki too. The district of Punavuori is a good place to start for this.
Helsinki has some extraordinary churches worth visiting if only for their architectural merit. These include Temppeliaukio Church, built into a rock; the stunning Kamppi Chapel of Silence, a place of stillness in one of the busiest areas of the city; and Helsinki Cathedral, a neoclassical landmark in the city centre.
