Barrenjoey Headland Palm Beach
Coastal views from Sydney’s northern tip
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A short but steep climb to Barrenjoey Lighthouse with sweeping views over Pittwater, Broken Bay and the Pacific Ocean.
Distance: 3 km
Time: 2–3 hours
Steps: 6,500
Level of difficulty: Moderate -
Barrenjoey Lighthouse & keeper cottages
Views over Pittwater, Broken Bay & Central Coast
Palm Beach, ocean pool and Kiddies Corner
Seasonal whale-watching (May–Sept)
Lighthouse tours run Sundays (bookings required)
Palm Beach filming location (Home and Away)
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Paid parking in Governor Phillip Park (free street parking limited)
Two ascent options: Smugglers Track (short/steep) or Access Trail (longer/gentler)
Exposed headland — sun, wind and sudden weather changes
Bring water and sun protection; little shade on upper sections
Binoculars useful for whale spotting
Uneven bush tracks around the headland
If you’ve spent any time at all in Sydney, you’ve probably heard of this walk - and with good reason. Spectacular coastal scenery and expansive views unfold as you climb to the lighthouse at the northern end of Palm Beach.
This is not a long walk, but it will certainly get your heart rate up. And if you’ve timed it right, once you reach the top you may even see a whale!
Governor Phillip Park to Station Beach
Enter Governor Phillip Park off Beach Road, just past the golf course, and park near or just beyond North Palm Beach Surf Club. Unless you’re a Northern Beaches resident with a permit, parking is paid (and not cheap), though you may find some free parking in nearby streets.
From the carpark, head north toward the lighthouse. A sandy path begins at the edge of the carpark and soon curves left through native shrubs and chattering birdlife, dropping gently to Station Beach and the start of the climb.
The walk
As you approach the start of the climb to Barrenjoey Headland, you’ll see that you have two options. The first, known as the Smugglers Track, climbs steeply for about 400 metres and takes around ten minutes (depending on your level of fitness). The Access Trail is roughly double the length, and takes about fifteen minutes but has a gentler gradient and more expansive views.
Considering both, I took the Access Trail. It’s a much gentler slope (though still quite steep in parts), and at every turn there is something to see. To begin with, there are views back over Pittwater, then across to the surf beach and ocean, and soon to the narrow strip of land or isthmus that separates the two.
As the ocean comes into view, you’ll start to hear it too. Curiously, there is one point in particular, where the sound gets even louder, in waves. As you climb, look out for a large boulder that sits on the left side of the path. Stop for a minute at this point and you’ll hear the sound of the ocean waves amplified by the rock. It’s pretty cool but I have no idea of the how or the why….. Anyone?
The View from the top
When you reach the top of the headland, you’ll be standing on Sydney’s northernmost point, 91 metres above sea level. This position and elevation afford unique views.
Standing on the central viewing platform, with the lighthouse at your back, look left across to Lion Island and over the calm waters of Broken Bay. Bring your gaze around to see the Central Coast, clearly visible opposite. Moving around the headland, you’ll see the ocean stretching south toward the Northern Beaches, then look back over the isthmus that separates the ocean from Pittwater and up to the Hawkesbury River in the west.
From May to September, Barrenjoey Headland is a popular spot from which to view migrating whales. Do bring binoculars and a zoom lens though, because they’re likely to be a long way out.
The Headland
The headland was named "Barrenjuee" by Governor Phillip in 1788 after an Aboriginal name for small wallaby or kangaroo. This became ‘Barrenjoey’ with time.
The Garigal people once occupied this headland as well as many of the areas you can see before you. For thousands of years, the surrounding land and sea would have provided local clans with an abundant food supply. Tragically, many of these clans were wiped out with the introduction of diseases such as smallpox in 1789. As a result, little is known of their way of life pre-colonial settlement.
If you have the time, it’s worth taking the bushland trail to explore the headland a little further. The path will take you closer to the water (though not all the way down), and if there are any whales about, you’ll be just that little bit closer to them.
The path is uneven but manageable, winding through native trees and flowering shrubs that attract a variety of birds, including sea-hawks and swallows, kingfishers and parrots.
The Lighthouse
The lighthouse was built over 140 years ago, from sandstone sourced on site. It was not the first light built on the headland but it is certainly the most impressive, and the most functional.
In 1868 the Stewart Towers stood at either end of the headland. They were wooden structures, which housed lanterns visible to ships on either side. Only ever meant to be temporary, they were not sufficient to prevent several nearby wrecks and their job was taken over with the construction of the current lighthouse and adjoining keeper cottages in 1881.
Stones marking the sites of the first structures can be found on the headland, along with the grave of the first principal lighthouse keeper, George Mulhall. Mulhall was reportedly struck by lightning on the headland and died soon after. (A good reason to heed the warnings about going up in wild weather.)
The beacon was manned by a series of keepers until the light was changed and its operations automated in 1932.
National Parks conducts tours of the lighthouse every Sunday at various times. Bookings are required.
The Return Trip
Retrace your steps to return to the start, enjoying some great views of the surf beach on the way down. Alternatively, take the Smugglers Track for something different.
If you know the area, you may be wondering what happened to The Boathouse, as you walk back along Station Beach. This popular waterside cafe was demolished early in 2022 and is to be replaced by a new structure due for completion in early 2023.
If you’re feeling hungry or thirsty as you head back to the car, there are a couple of other options.
Dunes Restaurant sits behind the carpark and they have a kiosk where you can pick up coffee and a bite to eat. If you’ve planned ahead you could even take a table at the restaurant after your walk, though you might want to change out of your walking gear first.
Alternatively, The Summer Bay Kiosk at the Surf Club does takeaway. Yes, North Palm Beach is where they film Home and Away and have done since 1988. If you’re a fan (and at a very loose end), you can pop down on weekdays and possibly catch some filming.
In the area
Looking to clock up a few more steps?
Take a stroll along the 2 km stretch of Palm Beach to the southern end and ‘Kiddies Corner’, a popular spot for swimming. There’s an ocean pool at this end and above it a stairway you can take to continue walking on to Whale Beach, Avalon and beyond.
LAST UPDATED FEBRUARY 2026