Cremorne Point Reserve
Whether you’re visiting from overseas or from just over the water, this is a great destination for a day trip. And if you’ve only got a little time to spare, it’s a nice easy walk that can be done in just under an hour. I’ve allowed a little extra time for meandering along the many paths that lead to the water including the track down to the point and Roberston’s Point Lighthouse.
To start
As this is a loop track there are a few places at which you could start, especially if you drive in and park in a nearby street. The best way though if you have the time, is to come by ferry from Circular Quay and begin the walk from Cremorne Wharf.
Leaving the ferry wharf, turn left to walk up Milson Road. Not far up you’ll see the entrance to Cremorne Reserve and the start of the foreshore walk.
The walk begins as it ends, on a regular level path, with large stately homes on one side and stunning harbour vistas on the other. There are signs dotted around the path with information about the area’s earliest and most recent inhabitants and activities.
Maccallum Pool
The path hugs the foreshore and takes in the Opera House, Bridge and Fort Dennison, filtered occasionally through flowering shrubs, palms and fig trees A little way along you’ll see another path that leads you down to Maccallum Pool, a 33 metre seaside pool which dates back to the early 1900s. The pool was initially a rock pool, constructed by local residents as a safe harbour swimming hole. It was expanded and improved over the years into a more formal enclosure by residents such as Hugh Maccallum for whom the pool was named when North Sydney Council took it over in 1930. Improvements such as a timber deck have been added over the years but the pool’s distinctive 1920s style has been preserved.
Sitting as it does in the lap of the harbour, Maccalum Pool requires regular maintenance and is often closed for cleaning. Cleaning dates and times are posted on the pool gates and on the North Sydney Council website.
Exiting the pool at the far end, take the stairs and path up to continue along the foreshore.About 500 metres along, you might see a sandy beach off to your right, depending on the tide. Scramble down the rough stairway to take a look around.
Back up on the path, there are numerous places to sit and take in the view. Here it’s easy to see why this has been such a popular spot for millennia.
A little history
Cremorne Point has long been a popular spot for picnic and pleasure. For thousands of years, the area, known as Wulwarrajeung, fed and sheltered the local Cammeraygal people. Numerous shell middens and rock engravings have been found here.
In the early 1800’s, following white settlement in the area, the land was granted to James Robertson who later sold it on to James Milson. In the 1850s, Milson leased the land out as a sort of fun park known as the Cremorne Pleasure Gardens. The Pleasure Gardens, though initially popular, soon gained a seedy reputation and closed in 1862.
In the 1890s the land was in danger of becoming fully developed for private housing or even worse, used as to house a coal mine! Thankfully though, it was dedicated for public recreation in 1905 so we are still able to enjoy it today.
A change of scenery
Much of the path on this harbour side is wheelchair friendly but the next section is not. A set of stairs will take you to the end of the path and the roadway. Take a right into Bogota Avenue and follow the footpath and stairs up to cross Milson Road and continue on to Hodgson Avenue where you will soon be directed back on to the waterfront reserve to continue your walk.
Along this side of the reserve the views change from harbour icons to the bobbing boats and sheltered waters of Mosman Bay. There are more grand homes with pretty front gardens and the path undulates a little as it wonders down to Old Cremorne Wharf and back up to level lawns.
A special garden
A few hundred metres on from the wharf you’ll see a sign guiding you into the Lex and Ruby Graham Garden. This informal garden, about a hectare in size, slopes down to a rock pool and is a pleasing though haphazard mix of native and exotics. It has received many awards owing for the most part, to the hard work of local couple Lex and Ruby Graham.
Like the Secret Garden in Lavender Bay, this garden was born out of a rubbish tip. It began to blossom in 1959 from a bulb Lex had found while swimming. He and Ruby, who were dating at the time, soon added any plants they could get their hands on and as their relationship grew so too did the garden. Lex and Ruby tended the garden for many years until their deaths. They were joined by local volunteers and council workers who continue its maintenance. The garden is protected by the National Trust.
Closing the loop and Robertson’s Point
Continue on around to the point and you’ll soon be reunited with the harbour vista. There are toilets here, off to your left and a great little playground for the kids with plenty of seating for their minders.
You can end the walk here and take the stairs down to the ferry or continue on past the playground to explore Robertson’s Point and Lighthouse.
The point is a very pleasant place to sit and watch the activity on the harbour. You can see over to Taronga Zoo on your left and back to the city on your right and watch the ferries travel between the two. Take the stairs down to get a better look at the lighthouse. If you’ve been to Bradley’s Head this lighthouse will look familiar. The light itself was built in 1909 with the concrete structure added in the 1930’s.
If you’ve got friends coming from overseas and they have only a short time in Sydney, I recommend this walk. Its a ten minute ferry ride from Circular Quay and a great place to get a taste of this harbour city, its beauty, views and history.