Manly Dam
I did this walk for the first time just last weekend and it’s officially on my favourites list. It has a lot to recommend it: bush, birds, beautiful wildflowers and babbling brooks. The only thing missing is coffee, but for the sake of unspoilt natural surroundings, I was happy to wait.
The walk starts in Manly Vale. Enter the parking area off King Street ($8 an hour without a local council sticker), or park in one of the surrounding streets. You can also get to the dam via bus from the city. The Northern Beaches B-line route will take you to nearby Condamine Street.
Leaving the car park, walk toward the large playground with toilets behind. (Good idea to stop here unless you can hold on until you get back.) Walk down to the signposted swimming area and turn right. The walk, following the Park Circuit Trail, begins from here.
The trail
The trail around Manly Dam is a circular one and you can go in either direction (we went counter-clockwise). The trail passes over the dam wall, through woodlands and swampy lagoons, past tiny sandy beaches and cascading waterfalls.
The path is fairly easy going for the most part though the rocky climbs, and gnarled roots in some parts mean you’ll want to be fairly fit and should wear sturdy shoes.
Along some sections you may find yourself sharing the path with a few trail bike riders . But it’s walkers and runners for the most part and if you go early you may find that you have long stretches all to yourself.
History of the dam
Manly Dam was constructed in 1892 to provide water for the local area. The wall of the dam was raised a few times in the early twentieth century in an effort to increase capacity for the growing population. But supply was quickly outstripped by demand, and in 1929 the dam’s operations were phased out when a pipeline from the main metropolitan system at Pymble Reservoir replaced the dam as the area’s water source. A long period of drought from 1934 to 1942 saw the dam brought back into service to supplement Sydney’s water supply. Since then though, the area has been used predominantly for recreational purposes.
Standing at the top of the dam wall, looking down at the pretty water lilies on one side and disused piping on the other, it’s hard to imagine that the water could ever spill over this steep sheer wall. But at one time, it threatened to do just that. Heavy rains and high seas in Sydney in 1915 heralded flood warnings around the dam. Evacuations in surrounding areas were planned for though ultimately not required.
Wildflowers and wildlife
Beyond the dam and at various points around the trail you’ll see an array of pretty wildflowers. Colours and varieties change with the seasons but walking in summer we saw plenty of fuchsia and flannel flowers, golden wattle and Christmas bush. There are over 300 species of native plants along the circuit, including 18 different species of native orchids.
The trail is abuzz with the sounds of local fauna. Over 80 bird species have been sited here and you can hear many of their competing cries. Several varieties of frogs can be heard too, all overlaid with the summer throng of cicada song. There are geckos and water dragons perched high on rocks, while local possums, swamp wallabies, echidnas and snakes mostly stay hidden in the surrounding bushland. If you’re very lucky, you might spot one of these very cute but rarely seen Eastern long-necked turtles that live in the area.
Water, water everywhere
Except on the high bits, where you meet a rocky road and a few mountain bikers. For the most part the trail hugs the water, taking you along meandering creeks, past pretty waterfalls and rock pools and back out along the main reservoir.
When the sounds of nature start to be drowned out by the cries of children playing and the hum of watercraft, you know the walk is coming to an end.
A boardwalk path takes you around the outskirts of Wakehurst Golf Course and back towards the main swimming and recreation areas.
Things to do
If you’ve still got the energy, there are plenty of things to do after completing the walk.
Kayaking, paddle-boarding and even water skiing are all options though you’ll need to bring your own watercraft as their are no local hire places as far as I could see. There are several barbecues and dedicated picnic areas (book ahead for large groups), and a couple of dedicated swimming areas including the one back at the start near the children’s playground.
And if you need that coffee, as I certainly did by 10am, I can recommend The Nectar Coffee House in North Balgowlah, just ten minutes drive from the car park.