Manly to Dee Why

MANLY TO DEE WHY WALK
Distance
6.5 km Steps 11000
Time 2 hours Level of Difficulty Moderate

This is another one of those stunning Northern Beaches walks that follows the coastline, winding its way along rugged cliffs and golden sandy beaches, and through lush coastal vegetation.

The route takes you between two of the areas longest and most popular beaches and is part of the much longer (soon to be completed) Northern Beaches Coastal Walk, that stretches 36 kilometres from Manly to Palm Beach.

We set off from Manly and headed north, but the walk can be done in either direction. Parking is usually easier to find (and cheaper) in Dee Why. There are good cafes at either end and the `\199 bus goes between the two in around 20 minutes (see below).

There are a number of cafes, picnic spots and playgrounds along the way and at every beach you’ll find toilets and change rooms.

If you’re lucky, at the right time of year, you might see humpback whales off in the distance, or resting further in at one of the coves. Dolphins too are regularly sighted along this stretch.

Getting there

By car, Manly beach is approximately 30 minutes from Sydney’s CBD depending on traffic (and Spit Bridge openings). Parking along the beachfront is mostly 2 hours but side streets and car parks allow parking for longer periods.

To get to Manly on public transport there are a few options:

  • The ferry from Circular Quay takes between 20 and 30 minutes

  • The 170 X runs morning and evening peak hours between Wynyard and Manly

  • The 199 bus begins its run in Palm Beach and takes in many of the Northern Beaches

  • The 144 bus connects the North Shore with Manly wharf and stops include Mosman, Neutral Bay and Chatswood

Manly

Bondi is arguably Australia’s best known beach, but according to millions of travellers, Manly is its best. For the second year in a row, Trip Advisor has rated Manly Australia’s best in the Annual Travellers Choice Awards. And though I have my own favourite, for its location and surrounding attractions, Manly is hard to beat.

Manly is home to at least eight different beaches and plenty more besides.

The main ocean stretch includes North Steyne, South Steyne and Queenscliff Beaches and Shelly Beach is south of these. There are two beaches at Manly Cove, either side of the ferry wharf and further along are Little Manly, Collins and Quarantine Beaches. If you count Freshwater and Fairlight, there are more than ten, with a few little others dotted in between

With so many beaches, swimming and surfing are the most popular pursuits. But Manly is also a great place to go snorkelling or diving with Shelley Beach and the surrounding aquatic reserve being the prime spots.

Off the sand, The Corso is a lively pedestrian mall, populated by surf shops, pubs, cafes and weekend markets. There’s a small art gallery and museum across from the wharf and the coastal path to North Head and the Quarantine Station are nearby.

Manly to Freshwater

The walk begins from Manly Beach. Most days, no matter the season, surfers line up along its stretch or gather in clusters with swimmers in between. On the sand the volleyball nets are well used and the path along the esplanade is always busy with walkers, runners, rollerbladers and cyclists. Take this path, or take to the sand, and head north.

Queenscliff Beach and Ocean Pool

At the end of the beach you’ll come to Queenscliff ocean pool. If the tide is on the rise, head up the set of stairs near the pool to continue the walk. But if the tide is low, you might want to take a diversion to The Wormhole before continuing on. (You might have to scramble over the rocks to get there.)

The Wormhole, also known as the Queenscliff Tunnel, dates back to 1908. It was apparently carved out by local fishermen as a shortcut to Freshwater Beach from Manly. Today, the path towards Freshwater from the tunnel is mostly blocked by rocks, but it’s still worth going through the hole to enjoy the unique tunnel vision to the south and east.

From The Wormhole, retrace your steps to the pool and climb the stairs.

The path leads to Queenscliff Road, on to Pavillion Street and around to Bridge Rd where you’ll see the path leading to Irene Crump Reserve and on down to Freshwater Beach.

Freshwater to Curl Curl

Freshwater Beach

Freshwater Beach (or Freshy) is tiny compared to Manly and not nearly as busy. Waves are usually on the smaller side which makes this a popular place for families to swim and new surfers to practice.

There’s a small playground and picnic area in the reserve behind the beach. The surf club has a small cafe, and the cafe attached to Pilu Restaurant serves breakfast and lunch.

Continuing on from here you have a couple of options. Take the path near the rockpool up to McKillop Park Reserve and around to the boardwalk that leads to Curl Curl. Alternatively, at low tide, you can walk on the rocks beyond the pool and then back up to join the boardwalk beyond the Reserve.

Curl Curl to Dee Why

South Curl Curl (or Curly) and North Curl Curl share the one stretch of sand. There are ocean pools and surf clubs with facilities at each, and behind them is Flora and Ritchie Roberts Reserve, a gassy dog off-leash area. A dog-friendly cafe sits above the sand at South Curl Curl Beach.

The walk continues over Dee Why headland, accessed via a path near North Curl Curl Pool. Tucked into the cliff face, this pool is a bit of a hidden gem. Favoured for its tranquility at low tide, it is largely inaccessible from the beach at at high tide. It’s a large pool, about 25 metres long and 20 metres wide and has two big ‘islands’ or rocks in its centre.

Ocean pool, North Curl Curl

The final leg to Dee Why is along a bush path which runs in front of headland homes. The path undulates and there are some stairs. Take care in the wet as some sections are mossy and slippery.

In the spring and summer, wildflowers abound along this trail and you’ll likely see a variety of birds feeding and nesting in the area. In migration season, whales can be spotted from one of the many lookouts along the path.

Dee Why Beach

You’ll get a good view of Dee Why Beach as you round the bend and what a view it is, with the beach curving out in a wide arc all the way to Long Reef Headland.

Dee Why tidal pool

Dee why Beach is around 1.2 km long if you measure to the lagoon, longer if you include Long Reef Beach beyond it.

Approaching it from the South end you’ll pass the ocean pool which is 50 metres long and has a toddlers area beside it. There are change rooms and toilets just up from the pool and there’s large reserve with a popular playground beyond that.

The Strand, which runs behind this end of the beach, is filled with cafes and restaurants and is a good place to stop for some refreshements before heading back.

In the area

As in Manly, there is plenty to see and do in this part of the Northern Beaches.

You can keep walking if you like and continue all the way to Palm Beach, although given that it’s over 20 km away, that stretch is best tackled in sections on another day. The walk to Long Reef or Collaroy is much shorter and worth adding on to this one if you still have the energy.

Surfing and swimming are a given at Dee Why and surrounding beaches and kayaking, paddle-boarding and jet-boarding are popular, especially at Fisherman and Collaroy Beaches. A (public) golf course takes up prime position on Long Reef Headland which is also a well-known paragliding spot.

Long Reef Aquatic Reserve is alive with marine creatures and is largely accessible especially at low tide. Marine life attracts bird life and this area has one of the most diverse range of bird species in NSW. Regular visitors to the area include Ospreys, Nankeen Kestrels, Sea Eagles and White-faced Herons and the local Pelicans are never far away from a catch.

Dee Why Lagoon Wildlife Refuge sits behind the beach, and the water and remnant bushland here cover an area of around 77 hectares. A trail runs between the refuge and the beach and offers an alternative route (and view) to the sand at high tide.

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