Spit to Manly
The Spit Bridge to Manly walk is one of the best known and most scenic coastal walks in Sydney. The views are spectacular and there are plenty of places to swim, play and picnic along the way.
The walk is part of the longer Scenic Walkway that stretches all the way to North Head. It’s not a difficult walk but I’ve rated it moderate for it’s sheer length and there are lots of ups and downs.
View from Dobroyd Head
Tips
Check the tides - Parts of this walk skirt the harbour at sea level, so walking at low tide means more sandy beaches and fewer roadway diversions (or wet shoes).
Set off early for a less crowded track and more parking options.
Take a hat and sunscreen as much of the trail is unshaded.
Leave the dog at home. The walk is mostly through national park where dogs are not allowed.
To start
You can do the walk in either direction but most people tend to start at the Spit and splash out at the end on Manly Beach or in one of the local bars or cafes.
If you’re driving to the Spit keep in mind that parking is pricey and there are not a lot of options. There is some parking in Spit West Reserve, just before the bridge or if you’re lucky you might find a free spot in one of the nearby streets. The 144 bus will take you back to the Spit with stops on either side.
The 144 bus is also s good option if you’d rather not drive. It runs from Chatswood Station to Manly (via St Leonards) and operates on a regular schedule seven days a week. See Transport Info for more details
Spit to Clontarf Reserve
The walk begins on the North side of the Spit. Head across the road to the right side of the bridge or take the underpass on the left which will take you to the star.t of the trail.
A word of warning. The Spit Bridge s a fairly old bridge (built in 1958) and it’s not a very high one. It is what’s known as a bascule bridge and it opens and shuts several times a day to let tall masted boats through, stopping traffic in the process. If you arrive at one of the opening times you’ll be stuck on the South side until it reopens. Not for long, but you can avoid the wait by checking Spit Bridge opening times before starting out.
The first part of the walk takes you along a pretty bush path in Ellery’s Punt Reserve. The peaceful fern-filled trail and resident birds soon drown out any traffic noise from above.
Before long you’ll emerge at Sandy Bay and Clontarf Reserve. This is a popular spot, especially on the weekends. There’s a large playground, an open off leash area for dogs and a netted one for humans. There’s also the waterside cafe, Sandy Bear, worth a stop if you’re hungry or need a caffeine boost.
Clontarf Reserve to Dobroyd Head
Leaving the reserve, head along the foreshore, walking to the end of the beach and on into the bush toward Castle Rock Beach. (If the tide is up, you’ll need to walk along Monash Crescent part of the way.)
Castle Rock Beach is one of those idyllic spots, little known and hidden away so if you want to make a stop here for a picnic or a swim, you may find you have it all to yourself. It’s a small beach hemmed in by the harbour and surrounded by bush. A set of steps just off the path will take you down to the sand.
Continuing along the path, look out for an unmarked side path about 400 metres on. This out and back sidetrack takes you down to Grotto Point Lighthouse (c1910) where you’ll get great views across Middle Harbour.
Another side trail, less well defined and branching off this one, will take you down to Washaway Beach (clothing optional), The water was calm around here when we walked but the surrounding cliffs can be pounded when the swell is up, hence the name.
Back on the main path you’ll soon come to the Grotto Point Engraving site where there are some relatively well-preserved stone etchings of a giant kangaroo, a whale, boomerangs and small fish. The engravings were made by the areas Aboriginal inhabitants and though they are said to be about 1000 years old their precise age is unknown.
Dobroyd Headland
Walking north from Grotto Point the track leads to Dobroyd Head where you’ll get expansive views of Sydney Harbour, laid out in all its glory. The panorama, visible at various points takes in Manly and North Head, Watsons Bay and South Head and the ocean beyond.
From the Crater Cove lookout, see if you can spot the old fishing shacks perched on the cliffs below. Built between 1923 and 1963, they’ve served as weekenders for some over the years and for others as permanent homes, especially during the Great Depression. When the area was declared National Park in 1984 all were evicted, and the huts are now maintained by volunteers.
Fishing Huts on Dobroyd Headland
If you’re thirsty at this point or looking for a loo, Tania Park, just behind the headland has bubblers and toilets and on weekends, a nearby Mr Whippy van sells coffee and ice cream.
This section of the track is very picturesque and not only because of the views. The surrounding native bushland, bright bottlebrush in the winter and pretty wildflowers in the warmer months add colour and attract birds and butterflies on either side of the boardwalk. The path winds down toward the water and becomes more shaded as you head around to Reef Bay.
North Harbour
The next part of the walk takes you past some small protected beaches and picnic spots.
Reef Beach, the first of these, is a small, secluded beach with great views over to Manly. According to National Parks there are Aboriginal carvings in the surrounding rocks so look out for these if you’re walking at low tide.
Next stop along the path is Forty Baskets Beach, a little slice of paradise for the residents that sit above and another pretty place for the rest of us to visit. There’s an enclosed swimming area with jump-off jetty, a swing set, barbecues, tables and toilets.
If you’re walking during a very high tide you may need to take the road to skirt around Forty Baskets and the reserve beyond. But the waterside paths are usually pretty accessible even if your feet might get a little wet.
Around the bend from Forty Baskets are the calm waters of North Harbour Reserve. This well used park has great facilities for family outings and picnics and there’s an off leash area down by the water, very popular with local dog owners.
Walk around the foreshore of the reserve then take the stairs leading up to King Avenue.
Follow the road up to Lauderdale Street and turn right. About 60 metres along on your right, take the path leading down to the water and follow the Fairlight Walk around to the beach.
Fairlight to Manly
This final stretch to Manly offers more of the same - great swimming spots, picnic areas and fabulous views.
Fairlight Beach is about 80 metres long and looks out to the heads. The rock pool offers a safe swimming area for lap swimmers and little ones and the surrounding waters attract snorkelers and divers.
Fairlight Beach
The pathway from here to Manly is well defined and littered with warnings to keep dogs on leads and to watch out for penguins. A small colony of Fairy Penguins is known to breed in the area around Esplanade Park though you’re unlikely to see them. They are of course protected and as they are the only remaining breeding colony on the NSW mainland, visitors are strongly discouraged from disturbing them in any way.
Esplanade Park foreshore, Manly
You’ll pass Manly Pavilion and the old aquarium as you round the corner to Manly Cove Beach. Follow the pathway to Manly Wharf. which officially marks the end of the walk.
From here you can get the ferry to the city or the 144 bus back to The Spit. Or, you can take the opportunity to explore Manly and all it has to offer.
In the area
There is plenty to do in Manly if you’ve still got the energy. Indeed if you’re up for it, you can extend your walk another ten kilometres or so, all the way to North Head.
But for everyone else… The adjacent beach offers one option for a swim or if it’s waves you’re after, the iconic Manly Beach is just a five minute walk away. (You can hire surfboards and gear from a few places along North Steyne which fronts the beach.)
For a cultural diversion, there’s a small art gallery and museum across from the wharf that regularly exhibits up and coming and established artists. And Manly Markets operates every Saturday and Sunday in the Corso and Sydney Rd.
There are plenty of places to eat and drink in Manly. At the wharf, along The Corso and in the surrounding streets you’ll find restaurants, cafes and pubs catering to all tastes. And if you haven’t yet had enough of those magnificent views I can recommend The Boat House at Manly Pavilion. We went here at the end of our walk and rewarded ourselves with a delicious lunch on the terrace.