Taronga to Balmoral
This walk has it all - bush, beach, nature and wildlife and some of the best views you’ll find anywhere. There are great picnic spots, playgrounds and amenities as well as flashes of Sydney’s modern and ancient past.
Before you begin the walk you’ll need to catch the bus. Not what you had in mind for a great day out but trust me, you’ll thank me in the end. Park your car in Middle Head Road in an unrestricted or extended parking area - there are plenty. Walk to the bus stop opposite Gordon St where you’ll take the 238 bus to Taronga Zoo wharf, about ten minutes ride.
To start
Stepping off the bus you’ll see the crowds gathering on your right to take the cable car up to the zoo - you want to go left. Start up the hill and you’ll soon find a path off to your right where you will begin the walk.
This first part is indicative of much of what is to come - a fairly level path through bushland, shaded from the heat of the day and fragrant with native flora. You can hear the hum of the city across the sparkling harbour which is never fully out of view, but there is also birdsong and butterflies, so leave the headphones in your backpack to soak up the sights and sounds.
A little way along you’ll see stairs leading down to the waters of Athol Bay, a pretty little beach where you can enjoy point blank views of the Opera House and city. Veer off for a dip here or continue on to Bradley’s Head.
Bradleys Head
Bradley’s Head lookout provides more stunning views of the city along with an active heritage-listed light tower and a dose of naval history.
Dominating the headland is the mast of the first HMAS Sydney. The mast commemorates all who died at sea in the defence of Australia including those aboard HMAS Sydney II which was sunk off the coast of Western Australia in 1941. The nearby memorial naval walkway details other ships lost in World War II.
Continue on along the pretty bush path, following the signs to Chowders Head. Keep a look out for local wildlife, including the occasional snake, but don’t worry, they’ll be more scared of you than you are of them.
Clifton Gardens and Chowder Bay
The grand homes of Clifton Gardens will soon come into view as you brush past their front fences on the way down to Chowder Bay. Clifton Gardens reserve is a beautiful park on Chowder Bay and the perfect place to stop for lunch if you’ve packed a picnic. The waters sparkle in brilliant blues and greens as you make your way down the hill past the old derelict mansion, Morella.
The park is very popular with families, especially on the weekends. It has a large playground, plenty of shade, great amenities and there is a cafe nearby. The netted beach area is very pretty. The water was a little cold the day I visited but that didn’t stop the little ones playing in the shallows and the more adventurous groups of divers exploring the marine life near the pier.
Cross to the end of the beach and take the steps up past the cafe and on past Ripples (yum, must come back), and up to the roadway. You can take this road all the way back up to Mosman and your car, but the much more scenic way is to take the bush path you’ll find just to the left of Drift cafe.
Georges Heights
The track up the hill is a little rough and steep in parts but it takes you right up to George’s Heights lookout so I reckon it’s worth the climb. When you get to the roadway at the top, follow the signs to the lookout. The view from here is spectacular, and the surrounding area is a real treat for military history buffs. With views to North and South Head and beyond, it is easy to see why this headland became popular for the military as a lookout for approaching enemy ships.
Walking around the headland you’ll find military fortifications and gun emplacements from World War II and below these, a series of interlinking tunnels which date back to the 1870s. The tunnels are closed to the public but you can book a guided tour through The Harbour Trust. If you head up inland to Headland park you can see the old military barracks and WWII era hospital, all well preserved, and many housing more contemporary establishments such as the Headland Artist’s precinct and the popular Frenchy’s Cafe.
Balmoral
The walk continues on the path adjacent to the kindergarten which will take you alongside the headland park and eventually up on to Middle Head Road. Cross the road and take the steep metal steps down among towering angophoras to beautiful Balmoral below. Yes, you will need to take these steps back up, but it’s worth the effort.
Cross Balmoral Oval with its cricket nets and skate board ramp and continue beyond the car park to the beach.
Balmoral really is a special spot and you could spend several hours here, swimming in the sheltered waters, picnicking at the little island which juts out from the beach, or eating at one of the many restaurants and cafes along the promenade. But to continue the walk, just follow the tree-lined path all the way to the other side where you can explore the rock pools before looping back.
On your way back at the entrance to the car park you’ll see a sign pointing to a rock shelter and shell midden which bear traces of the lives of the local Camaraygal people who called this place home for thousands of years.
And you’re nearly done! Cross back over Balmoral Oval and take a deep breath before ascending the stairs to Middle Head road and back to your car.
I did this walk on a perfect Sydney day and it is one of my favourites. I do hope you enjoy it too 😊