Bondi To Coogee
This is one of Sydney’s most popular coastal walks and it’s easy to see why. The trail skirts some of the city’s best loved beaches and the views along the clifftop paths are spectacular.
The walk takes about two hours but you could easily take all day, stopping along the way for a swim or a snorkel, a mid- trip coffee, or a long liquid lunch.
The path can get crowded, especially on weekends. We went on a beautiful mid-week, late-autumn morning and it was perfect. There are a few shady bits but the trail is largely exposed so I recommend taking a hat.
To start
We started the walk at Bondi Beach and parked in an all day metered section at the north end of Campbell Parade. You can find free parking in some of the streets further away from the beach but if you park close, be prepared to pay for it.
A better option, if you have the time may be to get the 333 bus from the city or the 380 bus from Bondi Junction .
At the other end, the 314 bus will take you back to Bondi Junction train station or the 373 bus goes back to the city. Unfortunately, there is no regular bus directly back to Bondi Beach from Coogee. You could swim I guess, but we called an Uber. Not a cheap day out, but a beautiful one.
Bondi Beach
Starting the walk from North Bondi you get to soak up the atmosphere of Australia’s best known beach. Bondi embodies the laid-back beach culture for which Australia is famous and it draws daily visitors from all over Sydney and tourists from around the world, (when they’re allowed in ;-)
Walking along the golden sand you’ll pass the famous and newly made over Bondi Pavilion, which has been a hub for cultural events in the area since the 1920’s.
Colourful murals line the sea walls a little further on featuring the works of renowned street artists. New artworks cover old ones every six months but two are constant. The Girl with a Frangipani in Her Hair, dedicated to local girl Chloe Byron who lost her life in the 2002 Bali bombing, along with an Anzac commemorative mural, have been chosen by Waverley Council for long-term preservation.
Take the path beyond the murals and past the skate park and you’ll soon be perched above the much photographed swimming pools of the Bondi Icebergs Swimming Club. There is a large eight lane lap pool with a smaller children’s pool beside it.
Bondi Icebergs has been a popular winter swimming destination since 1929. The club was founded to help local lifesavers maintain their fitness over winter. Members must brave the elements in the coldest months, competing in regular competitions, but the rest of us can use the pools year round for a small fee. The clubhouse is open to members and guests and the popular Icebergs Dining Room is housed in the same set of buildings.
Passing the Icebergs club house, follow the trail past beautiful sandstone rock formations around to Marks Park and Mackensies Point, where you’ll get a good view of the beaches and coastline in both directions.
Along this area, above the cliffs is a carving of a large sea creature, reflecting the musings of the Aboriginal people who would have long viewed the annual migration from this point.
Mackenzies Bay, a little further along is a small inlet and sometimes beach, popular with local surfers. From here, the path leads to Tamarama and you can follow it along or walk down on to the beach.
Tamarama to Bronte
Tamarama is not always the best place for a swim as it is known for rips and rough surf. But it is a pretty little cove with a nice cafe, park and amenities.
In times gone by, the area was home to an aquarium and pleasure gardens' featuring roller coasters and roller skating rinks, tightrope walkers and sword fighters. Today it is a little more tame.
Quieter and more appealing for me at least than the busier Bondi and Bronte on either side, there is nice sunny grass area a cafe and small playground.
Rejoin the path near the toilets to continue on to Bronte
Bronte Beach
Bronte is a good place for a picnic, and groups great and small gather here on sunny weekends. There are barbecues, picnic tables and plenty of space for ball games and the cafes nearby are popular and plentiful.
The beach is nice, wide and clean and the 30 metre ocean pool nested into the rocks at the far end is a real drawcard. There is also an enclosed natural pool, shallow and great for kids.
Near the end of the beach, look for the path and stairway to the right of the pool (to avoid meeting a dead end, as we did). Take the stairs up and you’ll walk along the roadway for a bit before joining the path that takes you on to the cemetery.
Waverly Cemetery
Approaching the cemetery from the elevated pathway, you get a good idea of its size and singular situation. There can’t be too many cemeteries with better views than this one.
The heritage listed cemetery opened in 1877 and over 80 000 people have been buried here in the years since. It has an oldy worldy, European feel with its predominantly Victorian and Edwardian monuments. The whitewashed marble and sun bleached headstones make a unified statement against the deep blue of the sky and the sea.
Considering the soaring prices of real estate today, its interesting to note that Waverley council’s purchase price for the initial ten or so hectares amounted to no more than a few thousand pounds.
Among the many residents here are notable writers Henry Lawson, Dorothea Mackellar and Henry Kendall.
Friends of Waverley Cemeteries conduct tours here or you can show yourself around using the cemetery map provided by Waverley Council.
Moving on from this beautiful place of rest you’ll soon pass the equally well-situated Clovelly Bowling Club before rounding the corner to Clovelly Beach.
Clovelly Beach
This is not your classic Australian beach. Sitting in the mouth of the bay and more concrete than soft sand, Clovelly still has appeal and is very popular with families. It is a good spot for snorkelling, especially if you’re just starting out, and a ramp on the northern side provides disabled access to the water.
There are shady grass areas and picnic shelters and the cafe, open daily from 8am - 4pm, offers eat-in and takeaway options.
To continue the walk, follow the path around past the cafe and swimming pool along the front of the car park. The path winds around the corner along Cliffbrook Parade and you’ll soon come to a steep flight of steps leading around to Gordons Bay.
Gordons Bay
This pretty little bay has European fishing village vibes and can only be accessed on foot. Rows of tinnies line the rocky border of the small (unpatrolled) beach and the turquoise tinged waters are usually calm, protected by an offshore reef.
Gordon’s Bay is well-known to Sydney snorkellers and divers for its diverse sea life and 600 metre underwater nature trail.
Follow the native tree-lined path above Gordons Bay which leads up the hill to Major Street, and on to Dunningham Reserve. And you’ re almost done.
Dunningham Reserve
Dunningham Reserve is located on the northern headland of Coogee Beach. Not only are the views from here spectacular, the park is elevated and inviting with large grassed areas, picnic shelters and shady places to sit and read a book, or take a nap.
The “Giles Baths” sign is a remnant of the old Giles Gym and Baths which was a bit of an institution in the area for many years. The buildings were demolished in 2000 but the sign remains as do the baths in the form of a natural rockpool or swimming hole at the foot of the headland.
In 2003 the area was dedicated as a place of reflection and memorial site to local victims of the Bali bombings. The site was renamed Dolphin Point in memory of the six members of the Coogee Dolphins Football Club who died in the bombings. A bronze sculpture created by artist Sasha Reid, depicts three linked figures representing family, friends and community and symbolising comfort support and protection. The names of NSW victims of the bombing are included on an adjacent plaque.
Coogee Beach
Coogee Beach is the final stop on the walk and the perfect place for a welcome rest, a swim or a bite to eat.
Coogee’s name comes from the local Aboriginal word ‘koojah’ which means "smelly place". The smell comes from the mounds of seaweed that regularly collect on the beach. Fortunately, for locals and visitors, the smell is largely kept at bay thanks to daily cleaning by council.
Coogee beach is known for its calmer conditions, protected by Wedding Cake Island, which sits offshore. There are ocean pools at either end of the beach and McIver’s Pool, Australia’s last remaining seawater pool for women and children only, sits just beyond the surf club to the south.
It’s easy to see why Coogee is so popular when you consider the surrounding amenities and the number of cafes, bars and eateries nearby. We had a nice lunch and coffee at the popular Barzura at the south end of Coogee Beach before calling an Uber to take us back to the start.
