Watsons Bay to South Head
Need a dose of green space and ocean air but don’t have a lot of time? This walk is perfect. The walk from Watson’s Bay wharf to Hornby Lighthouse and back is an easy 3 km stroll. You can do the trip in under an hour at a good pace or take your time, stopping for a swim or a picnic at one of the many pretty spots along the way.
If you’re thinking of doing the longer Bondi to Watsons Bay walk walk and have plenty of time to spare, you could tack this walk on at the end following Cliff St up past The Gap and the entry to HMAS Watson, up to the lighthouse and back down to Watson’s Bay ferry.
Watsons Bay Ferry Wharf
The walk begins at Watson’s Bay ferry wharf. If you’re driving in there is plenty of parking, some all day, in the streets alongside Robertson park and in small council carparks in Cliff St. Weekends can get very busy but midweek you can usually find a spot without too much trouble.
Passing the Watsons Bay Hotel and Doyles, follow the promenade past the many coloured tinnies and kayaks to the end of the beach.
From here, take the ramp up to Cove St and turn left. Take the first left into Pacific Street. The frangipani and bougainvillaea spilling over the walls of white-washed beach houses and cottages, give this suburban area a real holiday feel.
As you near the end of Pacific Street you’ll pass the heritage listed Marine Biological Station (1881), the first biological research station in the Southern Hemisphere. At the end of the street, take the steps to the left of Green Point Cottage and follow the path around the headland until you come to the steps leading down to Camp Cove Beach.
Camp Cove
Camp Cove Beach is a pretty little stretch of golden sand lapped by calm, kid-friendly clear water in front of high-fenced multi-million dollar homes. There is a little kiosk at the end of the beach and toilets behind.
The beach and surrounding area was once home to the Birrabirragal clan, and a small rock shelter here is said to hold shell midden deposits dating back to a much earlier time. The cove was also one of the first landing place for Europeans in 1788 and one of the first points of contact between the newcomers and the locals.
Take the wooden steps up, looking out over the weathered old jetty and follow signs up to the South Head Heritage Trail.
Up ahead is a shiny black canon looming threateningly over Sydney Harbour and out to the city. The canon dates back to 1872 and is an example of the many defences installed in the late 19th century to protect against a potential Russian attack.
Follow the tarred road up, past a toilet block and then down some steps where you’ll look out through pretty sprigs of banksia and bottlebrush over the famous Lady Bay Beach. Also known as Lady Jane Beach this not quite hidden stretch of sand has attracted nude bathers since the seventies.
Hornby Lighthouse & South Head
A candy striped surprise when you first see it, Hornby Lighthouse is just around the bend past the Georgian sandstone keepers cottages that overlook the headland. The lighthouse, which marks the harbour entrance, was built in 1958 in response to the tragic loss of 121 lives on the Dunbar, wrecked off South Head in 1957.
The lighthouse was automated in 1933 and the cottages subsequently fell into disuse and some disrepair. When National Parks took over their management in 1975, renovations were carried out and caretakers installed to oversee their security and upkeep. Judging by the paint job on the lighthouse itself I’d say it will soon be due for a generous lick of red and white paint.
Views from this point are magnificent and if there are any whales passing by, you’ve got a good chance of seeing them. Hang on to your hats though and your little ones. It can get pretty little windy up here and though there are plenty of warning signs there is very little in the way of fencing.
As you continue on the headland loop you’ll pass remnants of gun emplacements and tunnels which date back to the mid 1850’s. The fortifications were briefly recommissioned to ward off a feared Japanese attack in World War II. They were disarmed in 1944.
Return Trip
Following the loop around the headland you’ll soon find yourself heading back to the path you took earlier. Retrace your steps back to Camp Cove beach.
You can continue on the way you came or take a shorter route along the roadway. To do this, leave the beach via the trail beside the kiosk which leads to Cliff St. Follow this road all the way back to Robertson Park. On your left you’ll pass the entrance to HMAS Watson naval base and further on, the infamous Gap lookout .
Back at Watson’s Bay, there are plenty of places to stop for coffee or a bite to eat. Better still, grab some fish and chips from Doyles on the Wharf and soak up the view from the pretty sandy beach at the foot of the park, under the shade of a magnificent Moreton Bay fig.