Bondi to Watsons Bay
NOTE: Sections of the clifftop walk between Eastern Reserve and Diamond Bay Reserve may be closed for remediation work (See Council Website for details)
I have three pieces of advice for you before you start out on this walk:
Use the toilets at the beach because you won’t see another one for a while
Charge the battery in your camera or phone, because you’re going to want to take a lot of photos
Sunscreen and a hat are essential as there is very little shade
This walk is delightful and the trail surprisingly quiet, especially midweek. It comprises the first leg of the recently concluded and increasingly popular Bondi to Manly walk.
The walk takes between two and three hours, depending on your pace. There are some boring bits, especially in the first section as you make your way through the streets of North Bondi. You can avoid this, if you start the walk in Raleigh Reserve. But if you do that, you miss out on the opportunity for a swim at the iconic Bondi Beach.
Bondi Beach
If you’re a visitor to Sydney, Bondi Beach is no doubt on your must see list. The crescent-shaped beach, with its soft sand and social scene draws visitors from far and wide.
When you arrive at the beach, head down to the sand and over to the North end where you’ll begin the walk.
You’ll recognise the postcard scenes of sand, surf and skate ramps but look out also for the colourful murals that line the sea wall. The murals feature the work of street artists from around the world.
The artworks change every six months although two have been chosen by Waverley Council for long-term preservation. One is “The Girl with a Frangipani in Her Hair”, dedicated to local girl Chloe Byron who lost her life in the 2002 Bali bombing, and the other is an Anzac commemorative mural.
When you reach the end of the beach, take the steps beside the RSL club up to Brighton Boulevard. You can pick up a good coffee and a sandwich for the journey at Bru Coffee, before turning into Military Rd and heading up the hill.
There’s no getting around it, this part of the walk through the streets of North Bondi is not that exciting, but there are a few bright bits along the way.
Williams Park
At Williams Park, take the track that leads to the big stone tower - watch out for flying golf balls, you’re in the middle of a golf course. Behind the tower are some Aboriginal carvings of marine animals on a sandstone rock shelf, overlooking the ocean. The carvings have been re-grooved in an effort to preserve their outlines and some are believed to be thousands of years old.
Hugh Bamford Reserve offers another respite from the streetscape and further along at Raleigh Reserve in Dover Heights, you’ll find a nice stretch of parkland atop 80-metre high clifftops with great ocean views. There is a small playground here and judging by the number four legged visitors, dog walkers do a roaring trade in these parts.
Raleigh reserve morphs into Rodney Reserve which you’ll leave via Weonga Rd. Head back up to Military Rd and turn right.
Dudley Page to Eastern Reserve
Dudley Page Reserve, just a little further on, offers some of the most expansive views of the city and harbour. Predictably popular on New Years Eve, year round, t’s a great place to watch the sun set over Sydney.
From the stairs at the end of Dudley Page Reserve, turn right onto Lancaster Street and then continue on into the Eastern Reserve. The timber steps and boardwalk that hug the cliffs lead down to the grassed area of the reserve.
This, I’m told, is a prime place for whale spotting and indeed the ocean from this point seems to go on forever. Sadly, though I looked far and wide and squinted into the depths of the deep blue sea, there were no whales for me.
Eastern Reserve terminates in a dead end but you’ll see a set of stairs leading up to Oceanview Avenue. Take these to continue the walk up the hill turning right at Ray St.
Diamond Bay Reserve
A little way along Ray Street you’ll pass some pretty impressive real estate before a big, white, boxy apartment building comes into view. Just before it is a stairway which leads down and around to Diamond Bay Reserve.
This is my favourite part of the walk. The ocean lies glistening as far as the eye can see with the occasional sailing boat bobbing into view. Birds wing their way between soaring sandstone cliffs tickled at their toes by the turquoise waters and bubbling foam below. And the path which weaves around the clifftops takes you right out over it all.
As you continue on the pathway up to through the reserve toward Chris Bang Crescent., look out for the pretty mini rainforest that sits between the cliffs.
Follow Chris Bang Crescent to Clark Reserve and continue on through Christison Park to Macquarie Lighthouse.
Macquarie Lighthouse
Designed by convict architect Francis Greenway, this is Australia’s first and longest serving lighthouse. Originally built in 1818, it was largely reconstructed in 1880 when its foundations were found to be crumbling. The lighthouse tower is 26 metres tall and It looks out not only upon the vast ocean to the east, but west toward the city, and the bridge and all that has been built in the years since it was first erected.
The attractive sandstone keepers cottage that sits beside it is a private residence under leasehold (at quite a sum!) to the National Trust.
Further along on the headland is the Signal Station dating back to the 1840s. Remnants of fortifications erected in the late 19th century can be seen in the battery which lies adjacent to the station.
A more recent addition to the headland is Joel Adler’s Viewfinder, a rusted periscope that reflects an upside down view of the spectacular rocks and crashing waves directly below the cliff on which it is placed. The piece was first exhibited at Sculpture by the Sea in 2019 where it won several award including the People’s Choice.
The Gap
The Gap is famous for all the wrong reasons. A beautiful craggy cliff with fabulous ocean views, The Gap is Sydney’s most infamous suicide spot and the purpose built fencing and onsite Lifeline phone booths attest to this.
The views are good on the lower walkway but it’s worth taking the steps up to the clifftop for elevated views to North and South Head and over to the city. It’s also a great spot to watch for migrating whales between the months of May and September.
Watson’s Bay
Watson’s Bay is the perfect place to end the walk. You can cool off at the pretty sandy beach, enjoy a picnic in the park, or visit one of the many eateries including the popular Doyles restaurant or Watson’s Bay Hotel.
If you’ve still got the energy, Hornby Lighthouse is a kilometre or two up the hill on South Head and the walk and views are lovely. I chose to save that trip for another day.
The ferry from Watson’s Bay wharf will take you back to the city, or the 380 bus from Gap Rd will take you back to Bondi Beach.