The Sydney Observatory
I wish I could say I got a close up view of the Southern Cross, or that I saw Venus through the large telescope on a night tour in the South Dome. Sadly, not.
I visited the observatory on what was a beautiful winter’s day, but it was in the middle of the pandemic, so although the buildings and gardens were open, there were no day or night tours operating and access was limited. If the stars are your thing and you’d prefer the full experience - the night tours receive rave reviews - then best wait until things get back to normal. But if you’re up for a bit of history or happy just to soak in the surrounds, then go ahead and book your ticket.*
History
For thousands of years Observatory Hill was no doubt a popular look out point for local Aboriginal people. Since Europeans arrived in the late eighteenth century, the site has been known by many names. A windmill was constructed here in 1796, giving it the name WIndmill Hill. It was at other times called Citadel Hill, Fort Phillip and Flagstaff Hill according to its function, until the Observatory was built in 1858 giving it its current name.
The site was selected as it is the highest natural point in Sydney, sitting as it does, 40metres above sea level.
By water to Parramatta with a distant view of the western mountains, taken from the Windmill Hill at Sydney 1798 by James Heath Published by Cadell & Davies, 1798 May 25 from the National Library of Australia
The Observatory’s most important function early on was in telling time to all the ships in the surrounding harbour. The huge yellow time ball, which you can’t miss as you walk into the grounds, was dropped daily at 1 pm (and still is to this day). The dropping of the ball in coordination with the cannon fire on Dawes Point (later Fort Denison) signalled the hour to seamen in the surrounding harbour who would set their chronometers accordingly.
The Observatory today is known mostly as a museum and a great spot for wedding photos, but for over a century, it played an essential role in shipping, navigation, timekeeping, meteorology and astronomy.
Outside
The Observatory buildings are impressive. They include the main structure with its stately sandstone facade, time-ball tower and copper domes as well as two outbuildings use as residences and offices over time. The gardens have been well maintained according to the original plantings of the gardens laid out in the 1880s.
To the right of what was once the signal master’s cottage is a large flagstaff erected in 2008. Flags have flown from this point since 1825 communicating information across the waterways about everything from weather to the country of origins of ship in the harbour. The flagstaff today displays the usual national and state flags along with flags that indicate :
planets visible in the night sky
phases of the Moon
astronomical events including equinoxes, solstices, meteor showers and eclipses
maximum expected temperature for Sydney (three flags)
various shipping signals
Inside
The museum is housed in the main building over three labyrinthine levels. There is some interesting stuff here, more so for stargazers which I’m not, but it’s well put together and includes a series of small exhibitions featuring various telescopes, time-pieces, and globes and other items of historical significance. Among these are:
One of the chronometers used by Matthew Flinders on his voyage to Australia 1801-1803, along with the bearing book he used to chart the Australian coastline.
An exhibition on the rare Transit of Venus which includes some of the tools and observations of James Cook in 1769 as well as local artworks and astronomical observations from the 1874 Transit
Remnants of a 50,000 tonne meteorite which struck the earth in Wolfe Creek WA 300 000 years ago leaving a crater 900 metres wide and 60 metres deep.
The main attraction is the large telescope housed in the South Dome. The oldest working telescope in Australia, it was installed to observe the 1874 Transit of Venus. It is used on night tours but for now at least you can look, but don’t touch.
The view
Before you leave the site, it’s worth taking time to walk the perimeter of the gardens and surrounding parkland. Observatory’s Hill’s elevation means you get exceptional views of The Rocks, the harbour, city and suburbs. The parkland is a great spot for a picnic with huge Moreton Bay figs offering great shade for visitors.