Manly to North Head loop
The view from Burragula lookout on North Head
This is one very special walk. It’s sometimes suggested as an extension to the Spit to Manly walk, but at over 10 kilometres on its own, that’s a big ask. And besides, to get the most out of this walk — with its beaches, views, history and more — you’ll want to take your time.
Manly is famous for its beaches and you’ll step onto at least six of them as you follow the trail - Manly, Fairy Bower and Shelly Beach near the start of the walk, and Collins, Little Manly and Manly Cove Beach toward the end.
This iconic loop showcases the best of Manly, combining these golden beaches and expansive views with glimpses into Australia’s military and maritime history. It’s a varied walk, with plenty of opportunities to swim, stop for a coffee, or explore along the way.
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This iconic trail showcases the best of Manly, offering golden beaches and stunning views along with glimpses into Australia's military and maritime heritage.
Distance <10km Time 3-4 hours
Level of Difficulty Moderate -
Panoramic views
Beautiful beaches with great swimming, surf and snorkel spots
Wildlife spotting including whales in migration season
History
Plenty of places to eat and drink, many with views
Native bushland with seasonal wildflowers
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If you’ve brought the car and don’t mind paying for parking (or you have a Northern Beaches parking permit), it’s nice to start and end this walk at one of the many beaches along the trail. As well as being great places to cool off, most have picnic areas and/or cafes and other facilities nearby.
If you’re walking in the summer months, go early as shade is limited for much of the walk. If the temperatures get very high, National Parks may close the trail so check their website before heading out.
Hat and sunscreen recommended
If you hope to see whales from the headland, June-September are best (but no promises).
If you don’t have the time or inclination to do the whole walk, the Manly to North Head Loop Service will take you back to the ferry terminal.
National parkland - NO DOGS
Getting to Manly
The easiest way to get to the start of this trail is by ferry from Circular Quay. You could drive and park on a side street or in a car park if you choose to start at a different point, but much of the parking is metered and/or time limited.
For simplicity, I’ve put the trail start at Manly ferry wharf but as it’s a loop walk you could start anywhere.
WALKING THE TRAIL
Manly Wharf to Shelly Beach
Walking in a clockwise direction, cross the road from the ferry wharf to The Corso, a pedestrian shopping mall filled with cafés, surf and souvenir shops and weekend markets.
At the end of The Corso, cross the road to Manly Beach, world famous for its waves and Norfolk pine trees, and worth coming back to later if you’ve got the time.
Head south along Manly Beach to the swimming pool at Fairy Bower, then continue along the path to Shelly Beach.
Shelly Beach
Shelly Beach to North Head Sanctuary
Shelly Beach is a popular swimming and picnic beach and arguably Sydney’s best snorkelling spot (more below). There’s a café and restaurant here, along with change rooms and toilets.
At the far end of Shelly Beach, look for a set of steps leading up to the car park. Beyond the car park, more steps lead up into the bush. Take these.
Continue up along a somewhat rocky section of trail until you reach a sandstone wall with a little (and I do mean little) gate through which you crouch to enter the National Park and former military precinct.
This path, known as the Blue Fish Track, will take you into North Head Sanctuary.
North Head Sanctuary to Fairfax Walk
North Head Sanctuary is a nature refuge and former defence site managed by the Harbour Trust. As well as being home to a host of native plants and animals it contains significant historic landmarks, many of which you’ll see as you on the trail.
Following the path outlined on the map walk, through the parade ground of the Barracks Precinct, past remnants of North Fort and onto the Memorial Walkway (more on the history below).
There’s also an optional side trail up here (shown on the map) which leads to Hanging Swamp, a pretty area that’s alive in the warmer months with birdsong and a chorus of frogs.
The Hanging Swamp
Beyond the Memorial Walkway is the roadway and a footpath leading to the not-to-be-missed Fairfax Walk, with its two lookouts and jaw-dropping views.
The Fairfax Lookouts to North Head Scenic Drive
The views from the end of the headland are hard to beat. On one side you have the ocean reaching far out into the distance, and on the other, the sprawling harbour, South Head and the city skyline.
The two Fairfax lookouts - Yiningma and Burragula are perfectly placed to take in the surrounds and the structures themselves are striking in their design and sit beautifully in the landscape.
Head back towards the cafe and the Visitor Centre behind it and follow the signs leading to the Third Quarantine Cemetery. (More great views to be had here.)
The Third Quarantine Cemetery
Beyond the cemetery, follow the banksia-lined boardwalk path up to where you’ll loop behind the Barracks Precinct and then on to North Head Scenic Drive.
Beach hop back to Manly
Follow North Head Scenic Drive until you see a sign for Collins Beach on the left. About 800 metres down the road is a car park adjacent to a police building. From here, take the bush track down to petite and pretty Collins Beach (about five minutes).
On the far side of the beach, stairs lead up to a bush trail that comes out at Stuart Street.
Collins (Flat) Beach
From here you can follow the road directly to Little Manly Beach, or wander through Point Reserve before making your way around to the beach.
Little Manly Beach, with its café, playground and enclosed swimming area, is a favourite with families. It’s also a nice place to stop for a dip or a coffee if you’re so inclined.
From here, continue down Stuart Street to its end. Turn right onto The Esplanade, crossing the road to join the pedestrian path that leads down past the Skiff Club to the last of the six beaches, Manly Cove.
From Manly Cove it’s a short walk back to the ferry.
BACKGROUND & CONTEXT
A little bit of history
North Head Sanctuary holds great significance in both Aboriginal and European Australian history.
North Head was known as Car-rang-gel to the local Gayamagal people, who used the area for fishing, gathering and ceremony. Rock engravings, burials, middens and other sites across the headland speak to their long and continuing connection to this place.
The abduction of Colebee and Bennelong at Manly Cove, 25 November 1789. Taking of Colbee and Benalon, 1789, Mitchell Library SLNSW
Some of the earliest interactions between Aboriginal people and European colonists occurred in the North Head area. In 1788, members of the First Fleet led by Captain Arthur Phillip made contact with local people. The following year, three locals — Arabanoo, Bennelong and Colbee — were captured by settlers to be used as interpreters. In 1790, at Collins Flat Beach, Governor Phillip was speared in the shoulder during a feast held over a stranded whale.
The North Head Quarantine Station operated from 1832 to 1984. Over more than 150 years, around 580,000 migrants and travellers passed through the station. The Third Quarantine Cemetery, which lies on the path of this walk, was constructed as an overflow burial ground. It holds the remains of around 240 people buried between 1881 and 1925, many of whom died from diseases such as smallpox, Spanish flu, scarlet fever and bubonic plague. Many of the graves are unmarked.
The Quarantine Station, Manly
From the 1870s, North Head became a crucial part of Sydney’s harbour defences. North Fort, established in 1936, formed part of a defence system spanning more than 300 kilometres of coastline during World War II. At the height of the war, the fort was manned around the clock. Several gun pits can still be seen on and off the track, along with tunnels connecting them, which can be explored on a guided tour.
Australia’s Memorial Walk links five monuments commemorating significant periods of conflict in Australia’s history. The monuments and engraved paving stones honour those who served in wartime and peacekeeping operations.
A word about wildlife
North Head Sanctuary is an important refuge for native wildlife, including echidnas, reptiles and frogs, as well as vulnerable species such as the endangered long-nosed bandicoot. On the walk you may see eastern water dragons, and in warmer months it’s wise to watch out for snakes.
Around 150 bird species have been recorded at North Head and its surrounds. Rainbow lorikeets, Willy wagtails, little wattlebirds and New Holland honeyeaters are commonly seen foraging among the native vegetation, even in winter. Larger birds such as cormorants, pelicans, white-bellied sea eagles and goshawks are regularly spotted along the coast.
During migration season, North Head is also a popular whale-watching spot. From May to November, humpback and southern right whales can sometimes be seen travelling north and south along the coast, though sightings are never guaranteed.
The waters around Shelly Beach, part of the protected Cabbage Tree Bay Aquatic Reserve, are alive with marine life. If you snorkel here — ideally on a calm day and at high tide — you’re likely to encounter the local eastern blue groper. Stingrays, dusky flathead and a variety of smaller fish are also common, while deeper waters are home to giant cuttlefish, Port Jackson sharks and wobbegongs.
Eat & Drink
There are plenty of cafés, kiosks and restaurants along the route where you can stop for a coffee, cold drink or a meal. There are too many to list, but if you like a view with your food, a few well-placed options stand out.
Lunchtime view from the Bella Vista Cafe
Halfway along the walk, Bella Vista Café at North Head is a good place to stop, with breakfast and lunch and wide coastal views. The Boathouse at Shelly Beach is another popular option, offering breakfast, lunch and afternoon drinks right on the sand.
Later in the walk, Ripples at Little Manly serves lighter meals and snacks with views over the beach.
If you prefer to wait until the end, Manly offers plenty of choice. Venues change often, but The Pavilion at Manly Cove, right by the ferry, has an alfresco bar serving pizzas and casual meals, as well as a restaurant with a more substantial Italian-inspired menu.
Nearby Trails
If you like this area and want to explore it more, try one of the following three trails.
The Q Station Walk can be added to this one or done on its own. This relatively short walk explores the natural beauty and rich history of the old Quarantine Station at North Head.
The Spit to Manly is another beautiful long walk. The views are spectacular and there are plenty of places to swim, play and picnic along the way.
The Manly to Dee walking trail takes you further north, winding its way along rugged cliffs and golden sandy beaches, with a number of cafes, picnic spots and playgrounds en route.